Wild canoe adventure

A river journey through inland France may not, on the face of it, seem all that adventurous. Well let me tell you, there were plenty of challenges to make even the strongest heart pound during our journey along wild, swollen inland rivers, speeding tidal rivers and even lazy canal systems.

Why did it begin?

The idea for this ‘inland voyage’ (the title used by Robert Louis Stevenson for his canoe trip through Belgium and France in 1878) began in my local pub, unusually named ‘The Blue Ship’, in central Sussex. Whilst supping a pint with a friend he mentioned he was selling up in France. Instantly I recalled images of his ‘Old Town’ canoes that languished in his barn. A couple of beers later I was their new owner.

Pondering upon how to transport two 17-foot canoes home from central France, 350 miles from Calais, I dismissed the car roof rack and remembered he was only 20 miles from the Loire River, and so the idea of canoeing home was born.

What was my plan?

I determined that the journey would begin at the confluence of the Loire and Allier Rivers near Never, up the Loire to Briare, pass on to the Briare and Du Loing Canals linking to the River Seine, pass through Paris to take the River Oise Northbound, finally joining the River Somme into the English Channel, not far from Dieppe, an estimated distance of 400 plus miles.

But with two canoes and only me, prompted some frantic phone calls for help, shaking loose a sailing mate, John Parker, who agreed to join me – better still he volunteered his van (with roof rack) and brother as back up.

When should we go?

We decided to reconnoitre the route so during a freezing March we made a hasty four day round trip also visiting the FFCK (French Federation of Canoe Kayak) in Paris, with who I would had some difficulty in communicating, they listened curiously to our plan then told us that canoeing is banned through central Paris, apart from that we could canoe wherever we liked. Our trip went well until homeward bound we crossed the River Oise and noticed it flowing south not north! A quick re-think later, we decided to stay on the River Seine to the English Channel at Le Havre.

A charitable gesture!

Seeing this as a trip of a lifetime we felt someone should benefit and we chose to support the Starlight Children’s Foundation a charity that ‘brightens the lives of seriously and terminally ill children’. Their sponsorship form required an event name and it became ‘Geoff and John’s Crazy Canoe Caper’.

Raising £1,600 of pledges the pressure was on to actually complete the whole trip, effectively removing our ‘bail out plan’ in the event things got too tough!

5-7th June – Loire River section – 57.6 miles

With camp one 18.3 miles distant we shoved off into the turbulent current and tested our rusty paddling skills, prompting a sharp reminder that in a fast flow you must get the bowman paddling furiously to allow the stern paddle to steer!
The ample opportunities for rest breaks upon countless riverbank beaches and islands seen in March were now gone, submerged, making rest stops all but impossible. However the river’s speed resulted in a four-hour journey recording 4.6 mph, including stops!

The Loire is described as ‘untamed’ to which we would add ‘wilderness’ reminding us that any accident here would be serious. We saw neither man, beast nor boats and little evidence of habitation, except the odd charming towns and vineyards. Our average speed continued at 4.5 to 5mph thanks to the fast river flow but all this was to change!
8-12th June – Briare Canal – 62.9 miles

The weather remained dismal as we paddled constantly in the slack canal flow, worse into headwinds that we had barely noticed before. Our speed fell to a dismal 1.8 to 2.3mph meaning our paddling time must double. From the outset lock keepers eyed us suspiciously, until finally a VNF official informed us that we were prohibited from using canals. We pleaded our case, he listened and left and we carried on, two days later he returned with a letter of authority from the VNF.

13-15th June – Seine south – 36.8 miles

Our hopes for a speedy river flow were instantly quashed by the sluggish flow requiring an eight-hour paddle at a meagre 2.6mph. We now encountered massive super barges who’s wash was minimal when compared to that of smaller craft that create steep waves.

Completing the southerly section we camped at La Rochette just outside Paris and woke to discover that we, along with others, had been robbed whilst asleep apparently not an infrequent occurrence! So we fled far away from Paris to Vernon for safety.

16-20th June – Seine north – 77 miles

Slipping over during lunch I heard a crack from my forearm but apart from pain, no symptoms. The vast lock systems were all but impassable requiring lengthy detours. The river looped endlessly north and south whilst it broadened and stiff northerlies meant keeping track became difficult, though our speed improved to between 2.8 to 4.0 mph.

21-25th June – Seine north – 72 miles

The Seine became tidal and wow! With speeds of up to 5mph and tides reversing direction to full speed within 15 minutes, careful attention to the tide charts were imperative! Large sea going ships passed us endlessly and the riverbank changed between impenetrable sea walls to lazy beaches set against backdrops of white chalky cliffs and stunning countryside.
Our last day saw us pass under Tarncanville Bridge into the Le Havre/Honfleur estuary and directly into a Westerly gale.

We ran out of tide just past the Risle River junction and ‘called it quits’. Wading out through waist deep mud we hauled the canoe over the huge sea wall and on to our waiting transport a half mile away, where we made off to Honfleur and a well earned rest (and beer).

Summary

An undreamed-of adventure, ‘doo-able’ for everyone, old or young, fit or not so fit.